This is a random photo while I shot during one of my trips to Indonesia. The contrasting curvature of the light rays to the bend of the ocean surface of the wave made me take a second look at this. Unfortunately the internet compression ruins the colors, but it still presents the composition elements.

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Im pretty sure these were shot at a surf spot called “the hole”.

Malibu. Summer 2009. Summer is officially over. Cheers.

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Pascal Stansfield. This party was on the point, but felt like it was in a different planet.

Below, Ludacris.

RIP Dusty Peak. If there was a “quintessential” local Malibu name, face, or personality, Dusty was that one.

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He had become a man of legend. From when I was just a young kid, his stories of localism at our local surf spots seemed of rumor and fairy tales. But sure enough, they were true. His commitment to our community will not be forgotten and will be continued with pride by his amazing family. We, the entire Malibu community and beyond, will miss you Dusty. Hope you are ripping a hollow right hand point break again, standing tall in the barrel with that gap-toothed grin staring out of the tube.

As I said before, he was THE face of Malibu.

*Dusty passed away in his sleep Monday August 17th, 2009 with a smile on his face.

I recently got this cheap little waterproof camera and have been wanting to test some stuff out with it. Here is a quick video edit I did from a session a few days back. Click on the image to play it.

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The camera, when pointed directly at the sun, replaces the intensity with a black dot. Kinda weird, but what do you expect?
I am surfing on a BZ foamy longboard, handholding the camera. I have some more angles and different mounts I want to play around with in the near future, especially before I go back to Indonesia in september for 6 weeks.

If you want to embed the video, check the direct link to the vimeo page HERE.

Unfortunately, the waves are more often small and barely rideable at home than they are good. Fortunately however, some of the most enjoyable sessions I have had were below waist high.

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Only recently have I started shooting photos of what I call a phenomenon. High tide peeling barrels on the dry sand, only practically rideable with a soft top since the fins are scraping the sand and the board is often sent crashing into the rocks. Sometimes your body too.

All photos shot with a Canon G9 at iso 50 and 1/15th shutter speed. Some with a flash.

Here is the video I did last year. Shot on Super 8, filmed off a projection on a wall, reversed in post.

Click HERE to read some more words about why this film is one of my favorite pieces I have made.

Found my Thicker Than Water book (which is under the Heavy Metal book on the right). To me, Thicker Than Water is the best surf film ever made and I have drawn a lot of inspiration directly from that movie.

Annie Leibovitz spilling the guts on the behind the scenes of lots of her more famous shoots.

Larry Clark – “Tulsa.” The same guy who directed and wrote the cult classic film “Kids”

Mario Testino, Terry Richardson, Aurel Schmidt, Vice mag, My camera manual, Aperture, Malibu Mag, Robert Frank, William Eggleston, and some moleskines tucked in there somewhere filled with a bunch of bad ideas and a couple ones I might use in the future.

A couple more after the jump…