dont ask. there will be an explanation soon once it permits. ask Austin Peters.
click the post for more photos…
Finally we got in the water for some surf on Friday. It was a couple feet overhead on the sets at Maria’s. It is a point break/reef break kind of set up. Peaks all over, predominantly rights, with some fast lefts with air sections.
Saturday we kicked it at this spot called Crashboat with a bunch of weekender Puerto Ricans that were wilding out. Pretty funny.
This was taken from the balcony of the place we are staying in in Rincon.
Click more to see a bunch of photos and some more story.
For the last 6 weeks, I have been slowly starting to go a little crazy. A couple weeks ago I realized why. Yes, it is hard to go without surfing for a while, but I have gone much longer than 6 weeks. But, I haven’t gone that long without feeling the sensation of floating weightless in the ocean. Without sounding too cheesy, it’s magical. The oceans salt water has a cleansing feeling you cant simulate anywhere else. I miss this too much by living in the city.
So to make it short, I had to get out of there for a bit. Flights from JFK to Aguadilla, Puerto Rico on Jet Blue are really cheap right now thanks to the recession, so I, along with some friends, took advantage. Here is the first day in PR. Some good surf should start arriving tomorrow and last through the weekend. Fingers are crossed. Click for more…