Ahhh, localism. A favorite past time for surfers who live within the defined jurisdiction of said localized surf spot. You can liken it to a dog pissing to mark his or her territory. However, at some point in life, you often start to realize the absurdity of it all, but there is a certain animalistic second nature that thrives and comes alive when some kook you have never seen before burns you at the wave you call your own.
Jesse Billauer’s story is motivational. In 1996, when he was only 17 years old and on his way to becoming a pro surfer, Jesse was paralyzed while surfing Zuma, my local beach break, rendering him a quadriplegic.
Gallerista #11. Chelsea, New York 2009.
In the spring of last year, my friend Brendan Lynch (who you should check out his work site and rad image collection blog) and I had several discussions about the gallery viewing experience. When you enter, you often see this 20-something peering over a tall counter, giving you her attention only for a fraction of a second before returning to whatever important task she must be doing behind that counter.
This past week, the legendary Haze came through LA to do a show at the new Known Gallery space on Fairfax. I had the opportunity to hang with him a bit, interview him, and shoot some photos of him doing work.
Tim Ryan. Local Malibu surfboard shaper and lifeguard.
Alternative quivers #1 and #2