not going to coachella
“My whole life is this wave, I drop into, set the whole thing up, pull up from the bottom turn, pull up into it, shoot for my life. Going for broke. And behind me, all the shit goes over my back…. The screaming parents, screaming teachers, police, priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers… they are all going over the falls into the reef. Head first motherfucking reef. And I am shooting for my life. When it starts to close out I pull up from the bottom through the back. And I take off on another one and do the same damn thing.” – Miki Dora.